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1. Why Heart Rate Matters in Climbing

• Beginner Routes (5.5–5.8): Steady, low-intensity effort (60–70% MHR) to build technique and aerobic endurance.
• Intermediate Routes (5.9–5.11): Mixed effort—sustained holds (70–80% MHR) and short bursts (80–85% MHR) for cruxes.
• Advanced Routes (5.12+): High-intensity anaerobic efforts (80–90% MHR) with rapid recovery between hard sections.

2. Route-Specific Training with Heart Rate Data

A. Beginner Routes: Build Technique & Aerobic Stamina

• Training Drill: 3x 10-minute climbs on 5.8 routes, resting 5 minutes between attempts.
  • Use EZON C022Pro (from Heart Rate Series): Tracks average HR (aim for 114–133 BPM for a 30-year-old) and recovery time (HR should drop to <60% MHR within 3 minutes).
  • Why it works: Low-intensity efforts build forearm capillary density, reducing early fatigue on longer routes.

B. Intermediate Routes: Balance Power & Endurance

• Training Drill: 4x 8-minute climbs on 5.10 routes, with 2x 30-second “power moves” (e.g., dynos).
  • Use EZON C009Pro chest strap (Heart Rate Series): Alerts if HR exceeds 80% MHR during sustained sections (a sign of over-gripping). Post-climb, analyze effort distribution (e.g., 60% Zone 3, 40% Zone 4).
  • Pair with EZON R7 (from GPS Series): Log route details (angle, hold type) alongside HR data to spot patterns (e.g., overhangs spike HR faster).

C. Advanced Routes: Master Anaerobic Capacity

• Training Drill: 5x 5-minute climbs on 5.12 routes, resting 2 minutes between attempts.
  • Use R7: Tracks max HR during cruxes (aim for 85–90% MHR, not 100%—avoids burnout) and pre-climb HRV (heart rate variability). Low HRV means skip intense efforts to prevent injury.

3. Strength-Building Exercises: Guided by Heart Rate

• Finger & Forearm Strength:
  • Hangboard sessions: 4x 30-second hangs (open/closed grip) with 2-minute rests. Use C022Pro to keep HR <70% MHR—higher rates indicate inefficient gripping (wasting energy).
• Core & Leg Power:
  • Weighted step-ups + pull-ups: 3x 10 reps/side. C009Pro alerts if HR exceeds 75% MHR—signals poor form (e.g., swinging on pull-ups, reducing core engagement).

4. Recovery Techniques: Let Heart Rate Guide Rest

• Active Recovery: 15-minute easy walk or yoga at <60% MHR (Zone 1). R7 tracks HR recovery rate—faster drops mean better conditioning (e.g., HR returning to baseline in 5 minutes vs. 10).
• Rest Day Monitoring: Check resting HR (RHR) with R7 daily. A 5+ BPM increase from baseline means extend rest—critical for preventing pulley strains or tendon injuries.
• Nutrition Timing: Consume 20g protein + 30g carbs when HR returns to <65% MHR post-climb—optimizes muscle repair for forearms and core.

5. EZON Gear for Climbing Success

A. C022Pro (Heart Rate Series): Comfort for Dynamic Moves

• Advantages: Adjustable elastic armband stays secure during wide reaches; 3ATM waterproofing handles sweat/rain (outdoor crags). Ideal for beginners prioritizing comfort.

B. C009Pro (Heart Rate Series): Precision for High Intensity

• Advantages: ±1 BPM accuracy during dynos/jumps; 365-hour battery lasts months of training. Perfect for advanced climbers needing reliable data in anaerobic efforts.

C. R7 (GPS & Sports Series): Route Logging + HR Sync

• Advantages: GPS marks crag locations; 4-channel PPG sensor tracks HR during climbs and rest. Logs “route difficulty vs. HR” trends (e.g., 5.11 routes average 142 BPM for you) to guide goal-setting.

6. FAQs: Climbing with Heartbeat Monitors

Q: Can wrist-based watches work for climbing?

• R7’s wrist sensor works for steady efforts but may undercount during dynamic moves. Pair with C009Pro/C022Pro (Heart Rate Series) for accuracy.

Q: How to avoid HR monitor interference on overhangs?

• C022Pro’s armband stays clear of rock walls; C009Pro’s chest strap is protected by harnesses—both avoid friction issues.

Climb Smarter, Send Harder