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Why Exertion Management Makes or Breaks Climbs

• Short Climbs (Bouldering): 3–5 minute efforts demand controlled intensity—spiking exertion too early drains grip strength for the final hold.
• Long Routes (5.10+): Sustained effort over 10+ minutes requires pacing—burning too much energy on easy sections leaves you gasping at the crux.
• Multi-Pitch Climbs: Hours of climbing demand stamina—cumulative exertion without rest leads to errors on later pitches.

Decoding Heart Rate Zones for Climbing

• Zone 1 (50–60% MHR): Active Recovery
  Gentle movement (e.g., easy traverses) to flush lactic acid. Use this during rests between attempts or on flat sections of multi-pitch routes.
• Zone 2 (60–70% MHR): Endurance Base
  Ideal for sustained, moderate climbs (5.8–5.10). Your body burns fat efficiently here, preserving glycogen for harder sections. Most of your climbing duration should stay in this zone.
• Zone 3 (70–80% MHR): Controlled Effort
  For cruxes or steep sections (5.10–5.11). Short bursts here are safe, but lingering >2 minutes drains energy—use this zone strategically, not continuously.
• Zone 4 (80–90% MHR): Maximum Effort
  Reserved for 1–2 minute sprints (e.g., dynos on boulders or final pushes on 5.12+ routes). Treat this as a “power reserve”—overusing it cuts climbing duration by 30%+.

Exertion Management in Action: Climb Types & Strategies

1. Indoor Bouldering (Short, Intense Efforts)

• Pre-Climb: Check resting heart rate (RHR) with EZON R7 (from Sports Watch Series). A 5+ BPM rise from baseline means scale back effort (stick to Zone 3, not 4).
• During Climb: Use C022Pro armband (Heart Rate Series) to track spikes. If heart rate hits 85% MHR before the crux, pause for 2 deep breaths—letting it drop to 80% MHR restores grip strength.
• Post-Attempt: Rest until heart rate returns to <65% MHR (3–5 minutes). Rushing back increases error rate by 2x.

2. Single-Pitch Outdoor Climbs (Moderate Duration)

• Lower Section (0–30%): Stay in Zone 2 (60–70% MHR). Even easy holds deserve steady effort—avoid surging (spiking to 75% MHR) to conserve energy.
• Mid-Route (30–70%): Allow brief dips into Zone 3 for tricky moves, but recover immediately (drop to 65% MHR) on rests. R7’s GPS marks route segments, so you compare effort across climbs: “This 5.10’s mid-section keeps my heart rate 5 BPM higher than last week’s—grips are smaller, so I need to rest more.”
• Final Push (70–100%): Use Zone 3–4 sparingly. If heart rate hits 85% MHR with 10 feet to go, lean into it—you’re close enough to finish before fatigue hits.

3. Multi-Pitch Climbs (Extended Duration)

• Pitch 1: Keep heart rate <70% MHR to set a sustainable baseline. Log this in R7’s app as your “reference effort.”
• Pitch 2+: Aim for heart rate <5 BPM above Pitch 1’s average. A 10+ BPM rise signals dehydration or overexertion—stop to hydrate and rest until it drops.
• Descents: Use Zone 1 (50–60% MHR) to recover. C009Pro chest strap tracks this—ensuring descents actively reduce fatigue, not add to it.

Training to Manage Exertion: Build Climbing Duration & Success

• Lactate Threshold Drills: 4x 5-minute climbs at 75% MHR, with 3-minute rests. Over 6 weeks, this raises the heart rate at which fatigue hits—letting you stay in Zone 3 longer.
• Endurance Blocks: 60-minute easy climbs (5.6–5.8) at 60–65% MHR. R7 logs total climbing duration—aim to add 5 minutes weekly. This builds fat-burning efficiency, critical for long routes.
• Recovery Practice: Time how long it takes for heart rate to drop from 80% to 60% MHR post-climb. Target <2 minutes—faster recovery means more attempts in a session.

EZON Gear for Climbing Exertion Mastery

C009Pro (Heart Rate Series): The Precision Pick

• Key Features: ±1 BPM accuracy during dynamic moves (dynos, jumps), 365-hour battery, and a waterproof chest strap that stays secure under harnesses. Perfect for outdoor multi-pitch climbs where data reliability matters.

C022Pro (Heart Rate Series): Bouldering Favorite

• Advantages: Lightweight armband (28g) avoids chafing during repetitive bouldering moves. 3ATM waterproofing handles sweat, and its low-profile design won’t catch on holds.

R7 (Sports Watch Series): The Exertion Logbook

• Benefits: GPS marks crag locations, while its 4-channel sensor tracks heart rate alongside route details (angle, hold type). Log “effort vs. success” to spot patterns: “I send 80% of 5.10 routes when my average heart rate stays <72% MHR.”

Climb Longer, Send More: The Exertion Advantage